- Summer task -
This photoshoot was used as an introduction into photography A-Level from GCSE photography.
For this project the task was to take the photos at night and capture the location without people in them, Focusing on the structures illuminated by different sources of light analysing the mood these images create.
For this project the task was to take the photos at night and capture the location without people in them, Focusing on the structures illuminated by different sources of light analysing the mood these images create.
My Attempt:
WWW - these pictures successfully capture a variety of different moods such as joy and danger.
EBI - if i retook these pictures i would focus on capturing different more unique structures around the city.
EBI - if i retook these pictures i would focus on capturing different more unique structures around the city.
Project 1 - Photograms
Introduction to Photograms and Dark room
- Dark room -
- A darkroom is used to process photographic film, it's a room with no light or with a safelight for developing light-sensitive photographic materials including film and photographic paper Techniques. - Photos are taken using silver halide light sensitive films in cameras. - The films are then processed in a darkroom and prints made from the negatives in a darkroom. - A machine called an enlarger projects light through the negative onto light sensitive silver halide paper to make the print then the prints are put through a series of different chemicals first is the Developer second Stop Bath and third Fixer and lastly wash and dry the photogram. |
Dark room set up includes:
Enlarger - An enlarger is a special kind of projector used to create photographic prints done by shining light through the negative, it transfers your image from the small negative and enlarges it onto your paper. one of the most important parts of the dark rooms equipment
Safe light - A safe light converts your dark space into a red-lit darkroom so you can have the red light on without ruining your paper since nearly all darkroom papers are orthochromatic (meaning they’re partially blind to red light) therefore they can be handled under dim red light without exposing them and ruining the paper.
Darkroom Trays - Most darkrooms will have at least 3 trays set up used to hold the developer, stop bath and fix when printing, There will also be a wash bath, You will be moving your paper from one tray to another during the developing process. These are simple, but vital when it comes to printing in the darkroom.
Focus Finder - A focus finder is used to help you focus on the enlarger. It is important because if you don’t focus properly you will get blurry prints. When you look through it, it magnifies your image so you can see the actual grain of the negative you are printing, This helps you identify when the image is in sharp focus.
Sink - Much of the photo developing process happens at the photo processing sink. Since photo processing is a chemical procedure, sinks provide proper drainage when mixing chemicals. You'll also place various dark room developing trays in the sink. These trays hold your stop bath, developer, fixer, and rinse.
Developer - A developer reacts with the silver halides, making a picture appear. For black and white film, you use black and white developer. Developer solution is used in the darkroom for developing
Stop Bath - A developer will keep developing unless you stop it. If you wait too long, your film or print will be over-developed. A stop bath stops the developing process by neutralizing the developer, Because stop bath is acidic.
Fix - Once the stop bath has done its job, you want to stabilize the process, Fixer rinses away any leftover silver halide as well as the other darkroom chemicals so you can safely expose the film or print to light.
Photographic Paper - is a type of paper that is sensitive to light and used in creating photographic prints
Print Tongs - printing tongs allow you to move your darkroom paper through the developer, stop and fix trays when processing your paper. They help reduce the risk of marks and blemishes as your prints can easily be damaged by handling when wet. A set of three tongs also means you can reduce the contamination between the different processing trays by assigning one set to each tray.
Photograms
Examples of :
The process to make a photogram is done by using one blank piece of photographic paper placing them into the film carrier of an enlarger next to create the silhouette's on this photogram you must place objects over the paper to block out the light creating silhouette's next switch on the exposure light for 2 seconds removing the safety lens before.
The next part of this process is the series of chemicals first Developer second Stop Bath and third Fixer lastly wash and dry the photogram.
The next part of this process is the series of chemicals first Developer second Stop Bath and third Fixer lastly wash and dry the photogram.
My Failed attempts
These are my first and failed attempts at both original photograms and "Sandwich" printing these didn’t work as well for a number of reasons for example: time left in chemicals weren’t long enough or photographic paper curled up at the edges to fix these problems i corrected the time left in the chemicals this stopped colour changing or the silhouettes not fully developing to correct the curlings edges i put the photographic paper under a book to stop curling.
Test strip
To find the right time exposure for the best result on my photograms i have used a test strip, this is a method of comparing exposures by putting them all onto a single piece of photographic paper. This is done by using a piece of card to cover the photographic paper exposing a section and doing 1 second then 2 seconds and 3 and 4 creating different stripes of exposure and now you can tell that 3 or 4 seconds is the best as it comes through the clearest out of all the exposures shorter ones are too light. |
My attempts of Photograms
WWW - these pictures are successful in creating a clear image with a broad range of interesting objects that make interesting shapes that are easy to identify
EBI - if i were to retake these photos i would focus more on using non reflecting items such as the axe and the butterfly cause these had a slight shadow around the edges of the objects
EBI - if i were to retake these photos i would focus more on using non reflecting items such as the axe and the butterfly cause these had a slight shadow around the edges of the objects
Further Development
To further develop my photograms i changed the chemical process by using the development in more of a creative way by using a paint brush i experimented with different styles such as splattering or flicking on the developer both with a paint brush giving more of an interesting effect allowing some of the photogram not to develop staying blank.
My attempts at painting on the developer
Sandwich Printing
Examples of sandwich printing :
Sandwich printing is a non-digital photographic technique which combines one negative’s and a blank piece of photographic paper into a single image it produces the reverse image with a white background and black silhouette's. This "Sandwiching" process is done by using one black piece of photographic paper and one completed photogram and placing them over each other with glossy sides together placing them into the film carrier of an enlarger switching on the exposure light for 2 seconds removing the safety lens before.
The next part of this process is the series of chemicals first Developer second Stop Bath and third Fixer lastly wash and dry the photogram.
The next part of this process is the series of chemicals first Developer second Stop Bath and third Fixer lastly wash and dry the photogram.
My attempts of Sandwich Printing
Test strip
A test strip is a series of exposures on a single piece of paper that used to determine the correct exposure for a particular negative, Several exposures are made onto the same sheet of photographic paper this is then put through the developer, stop bath and the fix chemicals this is the only really reliable way to establish right exposure, When this is developed, it is easier to see the correct exposure for the print.
Double exposure / Moving an object
Examples of double exposure :
Double exposure photography is a technique that layers two different exposures onto a single image, combining the two photographs into one. This technique produces very interesting results and allows the photographer to produce ghost images and mirror images that tell a story in a unique way that can't be achieved with a single photo it can be used to convey a message or a story
Weaving
Examples of weaving with photograms :
For this process i used two types of photograms one original technique and one sandwich print, first i chose the original photogram as a base i left an inch of a margin before cutting eight strips along the width after that i cut the sandwich print photogram into strips then i alternated the way i intertwined them once full intertwined i cut the raw edges and tap the ends together to stop it from unraveling. |
Solarization
Examples of photograms :
- solarization is a Technique in photography that involves exposing a partially developed photograph (on a negative or on photographic paper) to light under the enlarger, before continuing processing, creating a halo-like effect, Dark areas appear light or light areas appear dark.
- To begin the process where develop and arrange your photographic paper normally. When the image begins to appear, remove the print from the developer and place it into a tray of water for about ten seconds, This will slow the development process, The next step is to re-expose the paper to light under the enlarger creating the halo-like effect where Dark areas appear light or light areas appear dark.
Best photograms
Project 2 - The Pin Hole Camera
Pin hole camera is based off the camera obscura, which is a large room or container that has been blacken out except for a small hole of light, but instead with a pin hole camera we use a can when light goes through the pinhole, it creates an inverted image at the back of the box which can be projected on to a blank piece of photographic paper inside the can which can then be developed in a dark room to create a negative image.
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Examples of photos taken with a pin hole camera
The step by step process :
How to use:
First you put the photographic paper into the can this is done in the darkroom so the paper isn’t ruined by the light outside
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The lid must be put on in the darkroom because it blocks out the light protecting the paper
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Once the photographic paper is securely in the can you need to point it at the image you want to capture and remove the tap over the hole for a certain amount of time
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Test strip
To find the right time exposure for the best result on my photograms i have used a test strip, this is a method of comparing exposures by putting them all onto a single piece of photographic paper.
This is done by using a piece of card to cover the photographic paper exposing a section and doing 1 second then 2 seconds and 3 and 4 creating different stripes of exposure and now you can tell that 3 or 4 seconds is the best as it comes through the clearest out of all the exposures shorter ones are too light.
And i found that 3-4 seconds give the best result.
This is done by using a piece of card to cover the photographic paper exposing a section and doing 1 second then 2 seconds and 3 and 4 creating different stripes of exposure and now you can tell that 3 or 4 seconds is the best as it comes through the clearest out of all the exposures shorter ones are too light.
And i found that 3-4 seconds give the best result.
My photo's taken with a pin hole camera
Picture from a window
This picture is taken from a window point of view,
I have then used the sandwich printing technique to produce a negative picture this is done by placing the already developed negative picture under the enlarger glossy side upwards and then placing a blank piece of photographic paper over it, glossy side facing downwards to produce the best result you can place a sheet of glass over them to stop the photographic paper from curling up at the sides,
after that you can expose it for around 3 or 4 seconds for best result.
This is how you produce an effective positive.
I have then used the sandwich printing technique to produce a negative picture this is done by placing the already developed negative picture under the enlarger glossy side upwards and then placing a blank piece of photographic paper over it, glossy side facing downwards to produce the best result you can place a sheet of glass over them to stop the photographic paper from curling up at the sides,
after that you can expose it for around 3 or 4 seconds for best result.
This is how you produce an effective positive.
WWW - the negative here is successful as it shows a clear defined outline of this building
EBI - the positive image here is more grainy and blurry so I could try and re-take this particular photo
Double exposure
For this picture i used double exposure which is method of combining 2 images a technique that layers two different images into a single image. This technique produces very interesting results and allows the photographer to produce ghost images and mirror images that tell a story in a unique way that can't be achieved with a single photo it can be used to convey a message or a story
WWW - For these pictures the top pictures of the building are much more successful as they are defined and clearly show the double exposure these photos are the negatives
EBI - here again the positive versions are a lot less clear more blurry so to fix this I can try and re-take my positives
EBI - here again the positive versions are a lot less clear more blurry so to fix this I can try and re-take my positives
Outside building
WWW - in these pictures the negative is more successful than the positive because it shows a sharper image compared to the positive which has developed more blurry
EBI - if I could retake these I would mainly try to re-do the positive aiming for a sharper more defined result
EBI - if I could retake these I would mainly try to re-do the positive aiming for a sharper more defined result
Ben Nathan
Ben Nathan works across a lot of different media's such as painting and photography as well as film and sculpture's. His artistic work reflects the functionality of the city and its industry, documenting the change in urban civilisation. His explorations into infrastructure and photography questions the changing nature of our cities environment and access to public or private space. The section pinhole features recent photographic projects, using traditional chemical based processes including portraits taken using the pinhole beer can, a DIY camera made from an up-cycled cans. Ben Nathan has also experimented with the pin hole camera idea using a caravan which Nathan transformed into a large scale pin hole camera
Examples of his work :
Film Photography
During using a film camera, a roll of light-sensitive film which is rolled up on its own inside a light-tight cartridge, which can be loaded into the camera in daylight is placed within the camera.
When the shutter of the camera is open, the film is exposed to light and an image is captured onto the light-sensitive film.
After the exposure is made, the photographer rolls the film forward so a fresh section of unexposed film is ready for the next photo this carries on till all the film is used up.
When the shutter of the camera is open, the film is exposed to light and an image is captured onto the light-sensitive film.
After the exposure is made, the photographer rolls the film forward so a fresh section of unexposed film is ready for the next photo this carries on till all the film is used up.
Equipment needed for developing film in a darkroom - 1st Step
The first step in preparing to develop film is to set up your workspace and gather all materials required. Do this before turning the lights off since you’ll need complete darkness once the development process begins. You’ll need the following materials:
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Step 2: open film cassette
Do not open your film canister until you are in complete darkness as exposing your film to even the slightest bit light can destroy and damage your negative
To open the film cassette, hook the edge of the lid under the cassette opener, then bend it to the side until the lid will pop off
To open the film cassette, hook the edge of the lid under the cassette opener, then bend it to the side until the lid will pop off
Step 3: Cut Film Off Cassette with Scissors
Take your film out of the cassette and cut it off with scissors.
To do this unroll the film until you reach the end which is a small plastic cassette in the center, then cut through the film
To do this unroll the film until you reach the end which is a small plastic cassette in the center, then cut through the film
Step 4: Load Film Onto Reel
To load the film onto the reel, finding the edge of the reel and slide the film into it.
Once secure, twist the side of the reel back and forth to wind the rest of the film.
You’ll know it’s finished when all the film is securely wrapped around the reel.
Once secure, twist the side of the reel back and forth to wind the rest of the film.
You’ll know it’s finished when all the film is securely wrapped around the reel.
Step 5: Place Reel in Film Tank
Find the film tank’s detached core, and slide it through the hole in the center of the film reel.
Next, place the reel flat in the bottom of the tank so that the core is sticking up in the center.
Cover your film tank with the lid and make sure it’s secured tight. This is where it will stay for the rest of the development process.
Next, place the reel flat in the bottom of the tank so that the core is sticking up in the center.
Cover your film tank with the lid and make sure it’s secured tight. This is where it will stay for the rest of the development process.
Step 6: Create Developer Mixture
Since your film is safe in your film tank, you can now turn on the lights to complete the next steps making it easier.
The developer mixture is used to develop film negatives in the tank, exact amounts will vary depending on the size of the film tank, it’s usually around 16 fluid ounces of film developer mixed with equal amounts of water.
Mix these 2 ingredients in a metal or plastic container, not in the film tank itself.
The developer mixture is used to develop film negatives in the tank, exact amounts will vary depending on the size of the film tank, it’s usually around 16 fluid ounces of film developer mixed with equal amounts of water.
Mix these 2 ingredients in a metal or plastic container, not in the film tank itself.
Step 7: Measure Temperature of Mixture
It’s vital to measure the temperature of your mixture to determine how long your film will need to develop. All film is different, Typically, film needs 8–11 minutes to develop properly.
Step 8: Pour Mixture into Film Tank
You should see a lid on the uppermost part of your film tank.
Be sure you are unscrewing this lid, and not the larger lid with the film in and sealing the tank shut. Pour the mixture directly down the funnel-shaped hole.
Once the entirety of the mixture is poured in, immediately set a timer for the time you determined in the previous step.
Be sure you are unscrewing this lid, and not the larger lid with the film in and sealing the tank shut. Pour the mixture directly down the funnel-shaped hole.
Once the entirety of the mixture is poured in, immediately set a timer for the time you determined in the previous step.
Step 9: Agitate Film Periodically
As the film develops, you’ll want to agitate it—continuously turn the tank to help spread the developer around—periodically throughout the timed interval. It’s recommended that you use the following schedule when agitating:
- First minute: Agitate the film for 30 seconds. Place your tank on a flat surface for 20 seconds, then agitate again for the remaining 10 seconds.
- Second minute: Let the film rest for 50 seconds, then agitate for the last 10 seconds.
- Remaining minutes: Repeat as you did the second minute for the rest of the minutes until finished.
Step 10: Fill Tank with Stop Bath
Stop bath is a liquid chemical mixture that prevents film from developing any further.
To use it correctly, first drain the developer mixture from the film tank.
Replace it with stop bath until tank is full.
Agitate for 30 seconds to help the stop bath spread evenly throughout the tank.
To use it correctly, first drain the developer mixture from the film tank.
Replace it with stop bath until tank is full.
Agitate for 30 seconds to help the stop bath spread evenly throughout the tank.
Step 11: Fill the Tank with Fixer
The final chemical used in the development process is fixer, which is used to help stabilize film so that it can be exposed to light without damage.
Pour out your stop bath and replace it with the fixer.
Follow the same agitation schedule you used with the developer mixture, leaving the fixer in the tank for about 3–5 minutes.
Pour out your stop bath and replace it with the fixer.
Follow the same agitation schedule you used with the developer mixture, leaving the fixer in the tank for about 3–5 minutes.
Step 12: Rinse and Soak Film
After using fixer, your film reel is safe to remove from the tank.
Thoroughly rinse the film with cold water for a few minutes to ensure they are no leftover chemicals.
Next, soak your film in a wetting agent to help rid it of excess water and avoid developing streak or bubble marks.
Thoroughly rinse the film with cold water for a few minutes to ensure they are no leftover chemicals.
Next, soak your film in a wetting agent to help rid it of excess water and avoid developing streak or bubble marks.
Step 13: Hang Film to Dry
Take your film off the reel and unroll it by twisting the sides of the reel in opposite directions.
Then pull it apart, separating it into two pieces.
Use a clothespin to hang the film to dry, and attach another to the bottom of the film so that it hangs taut. Let it dry for several hours before removing.
Then pull it apart, separating it into two pieces.
Use a clothespin to hang the film to dry, and attach another to the bottom of the film so that it hangs taut. Let it dry for several hours before removing.
Step 14: Clean and Store Film
Remove any excess streaks with a cleaner.
It’s advised to cut the film five smaller strips of negatives so that you can easily slide them into a plastic sleeve.
Sleeves provide protection, keeping negatives moist and free of smudges or debris.
Leave them covered until you’re ready to develop your film. From here, you can move on to the printing process.
It’s advised to cut the film five smaller strips of negatives so that you can easily slide them into a plastic sleeve.
Sleeves provide protection, keeping negatives moist and free of smudges or debris.
Leave them covered until you’re ready to develop your film. From here, you can move on to the printing process.
My attempts
To find the perfect exposure for my development of these film strips I used a test strip measuring the different exposures in conclusion 4-5 seconds worked the best
The original negatives
The positives
These positives are produced by using the sandwich print technique on the already developed negatives.